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Collection: War Belles

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND
Although the very wealthy could still afford to buy the limited collections produced by the couture industry, for the average woman the Second World War essentially put an end to the seasonal fashion cycle. It should be no surprise to learn then that wedding dress fashions of the 1940s often looked back to the Thirties for inspiration.
 
Wartime shortages of raw materials placed strict conditions on the production of new clothing. This particularly affected the style of the garment and how it was put together. Pleats, cuffs, linings and other decorative details were limited or banned outright in order to preserve fabric, rubber (elastics) and metal (fastenings). For many people, these restrictions heralded the need for ‘making do’.
 
For women getting married during wartime, ‘making do’ might include using fabric that had been carefully put away in ‘glory boxes’ before the war, borrowing a wedding dress from a friend or relative, altering an old wedding dress or reusing the fabric and trims from a former frock. If you were lucky, you might get your hands on a used parachute. Made of silk, these were in great demand for wedding dresses and lingerie in wartime trousseaux.
 
Some wartime brides married in their service uniforms but the more traditional searched high and low, and bartered, borrowed or begged for silk, in all its glorious forms, for this most special of dresses.
 
These dresses reflect a variety of styles worn by women from the late 1930s and through the 1940s. Despite the very different fabrics used, these gowns all feature similar stylistic details, some of which, like the extensive use of self-covered buttons secured by neat Rouleau loops, derive from 30s fashions. Other details, like the Early Victorian (c1840s) V-shaped waistline and long, fitted, sleeves with points extending over the hands, were popular into the 1950s and even the early 60s.
 
Perhaps the most glorious feature of these gowns, however, are the trains. For centuries an indulgence reserved for royalty and ‘high society’, extensive trains such as those seen on these dresses provided stateliness and of course the need for an extensive bridal party to fuss over them!

    Peach
    ​Final Winning Bid $100

    Artificial satin-backed crepe wedding dress, late 1930s-early 1940s
    New Zealand
     
    The bride has chosen to use the reverse or satin-side of this artificial silk crepe to create a luxurious and fluid wedding gown. The choice of pale peach is a little unusual for a wedding dress, being a fabric more commonly used for lingerie during the 1930s and 40s. The use of this fabric may indicate that this was a war-time wedding and the fabric was the bride’s attempt at ‘making do’ – perhaps using a piece of fabric from her ‘glory box ‘that was purchased before the war.
     
    The simple neckline, the peplum (short extension below the waist) and the use of a metallic zipper down the centre back all indicate that this dress was likely made in the 1940s. Note the measurements of the gown – from this example we can infer that not all brides had tiny waists in the past.
     
    Perhaps the loveliest feature of this dress is the elegant train which is one of the longest of any in this exhibition, extending 70 inches from the waist to the hem. Adding icing to the cake is the charming large bow which the dressmaker has constructed from a plaited length of the same fabric.    
     
    MEASUREMENTS
    Bust: 42”
    Waist: 35”
    Hip: Free
    Centre front neck to hem: 51”
    Waist to hem: 40”
    Centre back waist to train hem: 70”

    POINTS TO NOTE
    This is a beautiful vintage dress. As such, the garment may have small flaws and marks and will never be in perfect 'fresh from the shop floor' condition but this is what makes it so charming! It has had a life before meeting you and while every effort has been made to clean, mend and steam to help it look it's best, there may still be signs of a life well lived.

    ​Most of these have been photographed but if you need further information on condition please email glorydaysmagazinelive@gmail.com mentioning the title of the dress and any queries you have.
    IMPORTANT INFORMATION
    • By submitting a bid, you must agree to purchase if you are the highest bidder as at the 30th June, 2017 at 8pm
    • The highest bid will be updated weekly on Sundays until the auction has completed
    • Payment will be arranged with the highest bidder following the end of the auction
    • Shipping costs will be added on to the final sale price once the destination is confirmed
    • Part of the proceeds of all dress sales will go towards The Aunties - a charity organisation that supports people escaping domestic violence
    • Bidders outside of New Zealand are welcome!
Submit

    Brocade
    ​Final Winning Bid $40

    Synthetic figured brocade wedding dress, late 1940s-early-1950s
    New Zealand
     
    The beautiful heavy synthetic brocade used in this splendid princess-line gown is figured with delicate bouquets of star-shaped flowers intermingled with fern leaves. The unusual bodice, which adjoins a flattering high-set upcurved waist seam, is formed from two wide panels that extend beyond the shoulders, and which lend the dress a medieval air. The fitted sleeves are fastened at the wrist with 8 covered buttons and corresponding rouleau loops.
     
    In addition to the magnificent train, the designer has made a feature of the back of the gown with 47 covered buttons and corresponding rouleau loops that extend to the lower back to meet a large, romantic bow detail formed from wide ties inset to the side seams.
     
    MEASUREMENTS
    Bust: 32”
    Waist: 28”
    Hip: Free”
    Centre front neck to hem: 51”
    Waist to hem: 42”
    Back waist to hem: 80”

    POINTS TO NOTE
    This is a beautiful vintage dress. As such, the garment may have small flaws and marks and will never be in perfect 'fresh from the shop floor' condition but this is what makes it so charming! It has had a life before meeting you and while every effort has been made to clean, mend and steam to help it look it's best, there may still be signs of a life well lived.

    ​Most of these have been photographed but if you need further information on condition please email glorydaysmagazinelive@gmail.com mentioning the title of the dress and any queries you have.
    IMPORTANT INFORMATION
    • By submitting a bid, you must agree to purchase if you are the highest bidder as at the 30th June, 2017 at 8pm
    • The highest bid will be updated weekly on Sundays until the auction has completed
    • Payment will be arranged with the highest bidder following the end of the auction
    • Shipping costs will be added on to the final sale price once the destination is confirmed
    • Part of the proceeds of all dress sales will go towards The Aunties - a charity organisation that supports people escaping domestic violence
    • Bidders outside of New Zealand are welcome!
Submit

    Bow
    Current Highest Bid $85

    Synthetic Duchess satin wedding dress, late 1940s-early 1950s
    New Zealand
     
    The opulence of this rich cream wedding gown is largely due to the use of Duchess satin, a beautiful fabric popular for bridal wear due to its high thread count, pearly sheen and heavy weight. The designer has made the most of this luxurious fabric by keeping the bodice relatively simple in style while employing inventing cutting and seaming to incorporate many yards of fabric into the skirt. The skirt is comprised of 7 panels and a short fan-style train that features a large bow in the same fabric.
     
    The panels that form the neckline of this dress, and which overhang the upper sleeves, transform at the back to become a deep collar. The only extraneous ornament on this otherwise perfectly plain dress is a narrow row of cotton guipure lace that has been applied around the neckline. This may have been a later feature.
     
    MEASUREMENTS
    Bust: 32”
    Waist: 27”
    Hip: Free
    Centre front neck to hem: 53”
    Waist to hem: 44”
    Centre back waist to train hem: 61”


    POINTS TO NOTE
    This is a beautiful vintage dress. As such, the garment may have small flaws and marks and will never be in perfect 'fresh from the shop floor' condition but this is what makes it so charming! It has had a life before meeting you and while every effort has been made to clean, mend and steam to help it look it's best, there may still be signs of a life well lived.

    ​Most of these have been photographed but if you need further information on condition please email glorydaysmagazinelive@gmail.com mentioning the title of the dress and any queries you have.
    IMPORTANT INFORMATION
    • By submitting a bid, you must agree to purchase if you are the highest bidder as at the 30th June, 2017 at 8pm
    • The highest bid will be updated weekly on Sundays until the auction has completed
    • Payment will be arranged with the highest bidder following the end of the auction
    • Shipping costs will be added on to the final sale price once the destination is confirmed
    • Part of the proceeds of all dress sales will go towards The Aunties - a charity organisation that supports people escaping domestic violence
    • Bidders outside of New Zealand are welcome!
Submit
  • Welcome
  • My Home Town
    • About My Home Town
    • My Home Town App
    • Visit Whanganui >
      • Whanganui Featured Listings
    • Buy Your Guides
    • Local Knowledge >
      • Two Lippy Ladies
      • Painted Bird
      • Kerry Trent Ranginui
  • Collectors Anonymous