#SECONDHANDSEPTEMBER INTERVIEW - CARE AND REPAIR WITH GRACIE MATTHEWS
What started your passion for pre-loved and secondhand?
My mum made and repaired our clothes growing up and also started an op shop with the local church. Consequently, we technically had hand me downs or clothes that she adapted especially for us or our dolls. As I grew older I had a great appreciation of lovely textured natural fibre fabrics and prints that I found in mums sewing stash, and wondered why I never saw anyone else wearing the same. It felt very special.
When and why did you start working in textile care and repair?
While watching my mum repair and mend our clothes, I figured it was just what you did, so it became second nature. I have always struggled in finding something new to buy when it came to apparel, and have nearly always end up adapting or making something new just so I had a point of difference. This happened particularly in my late teens and early twenties, after finishing a fashion technology course. This enabled the opportunity to develop my creative side through textiles and apparel design.
Please tell us a love story about favourite vintage or secondhand clothing item/s in your collection
I have many favourite pieces, too many to list, but there are three that resonate the most at this point in life. One is a 3/4 sleeve, black silk cornelli quilted coat from the late 50's. I wear it when I want to add some evening glamour over a contemporary dress with vintage bling. There is a beautiful free hand crochet lace Edwardian collar that I have framed from 1909, I just love the intricacy. But my favourite piece that I love looking at is circular hanky pocket that is hand embroidered with country names in various colours from my great aunt. She was born here in Auckland and moved to Sydney with her family at a very young age. She would embroider the country's name after each expedition, starting in the 1940's right through to the early 80's. I was very close to my aunt, and is probably why I feel so at home here in New Zealand.
What drew you to start rescuing unloved items that other people would normally overlook and repair them?
It is always the textile that gets me in. If I can re-use the fabric, adapt the garment or it fills a brief for a costume client, then I am happy to take it in and look after it. Like most collectors, Some pieces were never cut up and stay as they are in a box, waiting for their new owner.
My mum made and repaired our clothes growing up and also started an op shop with the local church. Consequently, we technically had hand me downs or clothes that she adapted especially for us or our dolls. As I grew older I had a great appreciation of lovely textured natural fibre fabrics and prints that I found in mums sewing stash, and wondered why I never saw anyone else wearing the same. It felt very special.
When and why did you start working in textile care and repair?
While watching my mum repair and mend our clothes, I figured it was just what you did, so it became second nature. I have always struggled in finding something new to buy when it came to apparel, and have nearly always end up adapting or making something new just so I had a point of difference. This happened particularly in my late teens and early twenties, after finishing a fashion technology course. This enabled the opportunity to develop my creative side through textiles and apparel design.
Please tell us a love story about favourite vintage or secondhand clothing item/s in your collection
I have many favourite pieces, too many to list, but there are three that resonate the most at this point in life. One is a 3/4 sleeve, black silk cornelli quilted coat from the late 50's. I wear it when I want to add some evening glamour over a contemporary dress with vintage bling. There is a beautiful free hand crochet lace Edwardian collar that I have framed from 1909, I just love the intricacy. But my favourite piece that I love looking at is circular hanky pocket that is hand embroidered with country names in various colours from my great aunt. She was born here in Auckland and moved to Sydney with her family at a very young age. She would embroider the country's name after each expedition, starting in the 1940's right through to the early 80's. I was very close to my aunt, and is probably why I feel so at home here in New Zealand.
What drew you to start rescuing unloved items that other people would normally overlook and repair them?
It is always the textile that gets me in. If I can re-use the fabric, adapt the garment or it fills a brief for a costume client, then I am happy to take it in and look after it. Like most collectors, Some pieces were never cut up and stay as they are in a box, waiting for their new owner.
In this age of fast cheap fashion, care and repair seems like a radical act as it takes so much more time and effort rather than chucking something out that's damaged and buying something new. What are your thoughts on care and repair and the time that these take?
Buy well, and look after it. Cheap fashion is fine for the basics, t-shirts, jeans, underwear etc, But if you buy with your heart and the purpose of the garment suits your wardrobe ensemble, make sure its classic in style and colour and looks good on you. I do a lot of repairs and mends these days, but the alterations to garments because it "was a bargain", usually means there was more emotion than common sense in the purchase, and it can become an expensive exercise in the end. Or it never gets altered and sits in the wardrobe wasting space.
Interestingly this year, I have had an increase on repairs and mending and a huge jump in bridal gowns which I think is just fantastic. Tweaking a gown to make it unique and fit properly is very cost effective way to be different, save money and of course reduce landfill or space at op-shops for more interesting things. I believe, this year has been a turning point for many when it comes to caring for your clothing and respecting the garment industry as a whole.
Where do you go to source your secondhand goods and repair supplies?
I try to use op-shops and end of line retailers, rather than buying new. Though I have found myself using up all my stash this year and have had to call on a textile rep for specialty prints for my children sewing classes and projects. I also have a growing stash that has been gifted.
What are your thoughts about upcycling and repurposing old items? Why is it important that we start looking at how we, as a society, can reuse what already exists?
We are always looking out for the easy quick option, when it comes to repairs of furniture and white goods for example. Sadly manufacturers want you to replace, rather than repair. Spare parts are few and far between, and not a focussed area for revenue for manufacturers. My partner is a sparky, and the time it takes to chase down a spare part can end up costing the customer more. Until there is a shift for manufacturers to produce less "the latest new product" and more spare parts, we will continue to struggle with changing peoples thinking. It's why I love mechanical devices, less can go wrong and they are much easier to fix.
When people are out secondhand clothes shopping, what advice can you give around items that are damaged but worth saving and items that should be avoided?
Don't be afraid to try it on and take a tape measure so you can check if it will fit. Check for spare buttons on the inside seams, strain marks on seams, see if there is room in the seams and facings if you need to make it bigger. Go for great fabrics that appeal to you or the project at hand. Second hand clothes have a story, they will have wear marks or stains that may not come out. You need to accept this at the time of purchase. Remember you are probably helping someone else who needs the income more than you. Please don't bargain with the volunteers behind the counter, if you don't think its good value, don't buy it. Someone else will.
Buy well, and look after it. Cheap fashion is fine for the basics, t-shirts, jeans, underwear etc, But if you buy with your heart and the purpose of the garment suits your wardrobe ensemble, make sure its classic in style and colour and looks good on you. I do a lot of repairs and mends these days, but the alterations to garments because it "was a bargain", usually means there was more emotion than common sense in the purchase, and it can become an expensive exercise in the end. Or it never gets altered and sits in the wardrobe wasting space.
Interestingly this year, I have had an increase on repairs and mending and a huge jump in bridal gowns which I think is just fantastic. Tweaking a gown to make it unique and fit properly is very cost effective way to be different, save money and of course reduce landfill or space at op-shops for more interesting things. I believe, this year has been a turning point for many when it comes to caring for your clothing and respecting the garment industry as a whole.
Where do you go to source your secondhand goods and repair supplies?
I try to use op-shops and end of line retailers, rather than buying new. Though I have found myself using up all my stash this year and have had to call on a textile rep for specialty prints for my children sewing classes and projects. I also have a growing stash that has been gifted.
What are your thoughts about upcycling and repurposing old items? Why is it important that we start looking at how we, as a society, can reuse what already exists?
We are always looking out for the easy quick option, when it comes to repairs of furniture and white goods for example. Sadly manufacturers want you to replace, rather than repair. Spare parts are few and far between, and not a focussed area for revenue for manufacturers. My partner is a sparky, and the time it takes to chase down a spare part can end up costing the customer more. Until there is a shift for manufacturers to produce less "the latest new product" and more spare parts, we will continue to struggle with changing peoples thinking. It's why I love mechanical devices, less can go wrong and they are much easier to fix.
When people are out secondhand clothes shopping, what advice can you give around items that are damaged but worth saving and items that should be avoided?
Don't be afraid to try it on and take a tape measure so you can check if it will fit. Check for spare buttons on the inside seams, strain marks on seams, see if there is room in the seams and facings if you need to make it bigger. Go for great fabrics that appeal to you or the project at hand. Second hand clothes have a story, they will have wear marks or stains that may not come out. You need to accept this at the time of purchase. Remember you are probably helping someone else who needs the income more than you. Please don't bargain with the volunteers behind the counter, if you don't think its good value, don't buy it. Someone else will.
What are some of the challenges when caring for and repairing secondhand textiles?
Accept that no matter what you try, stains may not come out. Or that rip or moth hole damage will always be seen in the mend. I make sure customers are aware, that no matter how good a mend or clean it gets, the item may have a permanent blemish. In most cases, repairing garments get good results after they have been carefully washed or dry-cleaned. There's nothing worse than working on grotty clothing.
And what are some of the joys?
A perfect invisible mend, a perfectly replaced zipper, a complete re-adaption of a bridal gown, transforming from frump to fabulous. Return and recommendations from clientele.
Can you share some of your top tips for caring for your clothing so that it lasts longer and has creates environmental damage?
Keep those moths out. Store knitwear in draws and not on hangers, use soft covered hangers for delicate fabrics. Buy what you need and not what you want.
Can you share some of your top tips for repairing clothing so that people can save it from landfill?
Keep those spare buttons, and buy a reel of matching thread in the same season as your purchase. Its more likely you will find a close match if it's currently in fashion.
Overconsumption and over production of new clothing is a huge global issue, particularly with landfills being drowned in textiles that are hardly used before they're discarded. Your creativity supports a welcome alternative to this throwaway culture, what are your thoughts on this issue?
Everyone needs to do their little bit to reduce the waste. Buy what you need, not what you want. Think about how much wear you will get from your purchase before doing so. Can you adapt it to cover multiple seasons?
Any other wisdom or words of advice that you'd like to share with people during #secondhandseptember
Mend and save money. Why not shout someone a coffee and when they ask why, just say I mended something in my wardrobe. Oh and learn to sew!
Accept that no matter what you try, stains may not come out. Or that rip or moth hole damage will always be seen in the mend. I make sure customers are aware, that no matter how good a mend or clean it gets, the item may have a permanent blemish. In most cases, repairing garments get good results after they have been carefully washed or dry-cleaned. There's nothing worse than working on grotty clothing.
And what are some of the joys?
A perfect invisible mend, a perfectly replaced zipper, a complete re-adaption of a bridal gown, transforming from frump to fabulous. Return and recommendations from clientele.
Can you share some of your top tips for caring for your clothing so that it lasts longer and has creates environmental damage?
Keep those moths out. Store knitwear in draws and not on hangers, use soft covered hangers for delicate fabrics. Buy what you need and not what you want.
Can you share some of your top tips for repairing clothing so that people can save it from landfill?
Keep those spare buttons, and buy a reel of matching thread in the same season as your purchase. Its more likely you will find a close match if it's currently in fashion.
Overconsumption and over production of new clothing is a huge global issue, particularly with landfills being drowned in textiles that are hardly used before they're discarded. Your creativity supports a welcome alternative to this throwaway culture, what are your thoughts on this issue?
Everyone needs to do their little bit to reduce the waste. Buy what you need, not what you want. Think about how much wear you will get from your purchase before doing so. Can you adapt it to cover multiple seasons?
Any other wisdom or words of advice that you'd like to share with people during #secondhandseptember
Mend and save money. Why not shout someone a coffee and when they ask why, just say I mended something in my wardrobe. Oh and learn to sew!
Gracie Matthews has been a costumier for many years, owns costume hire business Clevedon Costumes and Vintage Apparel, designs and makes specialty gowns, repairs and adapts vintage apparel, runs sewing and pattern making classes for all ages and founded the sewing and textile group Meet the Frockers on facebook.
Inspired to find pre-loved garments to practice your mending skills on? CLICK HERE to order a pre-sale copy of Collector's Anonymous, your handy glovebox sized guide that lists over 1500 antique, secondhand and charity stores around Aotearoa.
Inspired to find pre-loved garments to practice your mending skills on? CLICK HERE to order a pre-sale copy of Collector's Anonymous, your handy glovebox sized guide that lists over 1500 antique, secondhand and charity stores around Aotearoa.
